We have a 5-stage RO system and have used them for the last 20 years. We also buy colloidal minerals by the gallon to add to drinks.

"The biggest reason that this is not a problem is the tiny amount of trace minerals you get from normal water is not going to make any real difference as long as your eating a good diet you will get like 99% of them from your food."

Your writing was good up to this point. The question is -- What is a good diet? If you answer this with eating a well balanced diet of say organic vegetables or vegetables, with meats and fruit, this is pretty much the line the FDA promotes (excluding organic). Anything the FDA says is 'Buyer Beware'.

What is the relationship of vegetables to trace minerals? Any glyphosate sprayed crop is disabled from pulling any minerals from the soil. That is, if the soil has them. Generally, the most nutritious and healthy vegetables goes like the following from least to most. 4. GMO, 3. Hybrid treated, 2. Organic, 1. Wild. Wild blue berries for example are much more healthy (nutritious) than organic, and so on. There's really two reasons for this. One, the soil itself and two, absence of hybridity.

In 1933 in the Congressional record, an official report was submitted stating the soils in America were greatly depleted of minerals. That was 89 years ago. Things have not gotten any better, but worse. Trace minerals in the soil is responsible for maintaining a thriving biome for plants to be healthy. The plants/crops today are dependent on herbicides and pesticides to keep predator insects away. The biome is non-existent or very unhealthy. Healthy plants/crops don't have this issue. The Laws of Nature are pretty similar for plants as it is with animals. In the animal kingdom the weak, the young, and the old are targeted by predators and preyed on. This same law applies to plants with insects. Weak and unhealthy plants are targeted by insects, not the healthy ones.

Paul Gautschi's video "Back to Eden" showed me exactly how it works. I grew a gardens for many years and never had to water, use fertilizer, or pesticides. When the plants were first planted, I'd cut a thin strip of aluminum foil and curl it around the plant's base. This was to assure that cabbage worms didn't climb the plant and eat the young leaves. After abandoning the tilling method, I never had problems with cabbage worms again. Nevertheless, I still used the aluminum foil out of habit and for a safe guard using Paul Gautschi's system. Once the plants got big enough, I never had any problems with any insects. In all likelihood, I probably didn't even need the aluminum foil. It's absolutely amazing how well this worked. Wood chips provide the plant all the minerals it needs to be healthy.

The Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphorus (NKP) used in commercial fertilizers doesn't really make a plant healthy. Plants require far more minerals to be robust and healthy. Decomposing wood chips provide these minerals and creates a flourishing biome of other species that aid in the plant's robustness and health. I noticed the worms in the lower level of wood chip were very plentiful.

Remineralizing the soil is extremely important. Before putting wood chips down on the soil, another starting aid is to buy glacial dust and add it to the tilled soil. Once this is done, cover the ground with wood chips to insulate and protect the soil. It keeps the soil moist and cool while the surface of the wood chips is bone dry and unsuitable for weeds to take root. If a weed did take hold, I used my foot to kick up the wood chips and the root of the weed would be exposed to the hot sun. The surface of the wood chips in the sun was very warm to the touch. My experience with managing the weeds is that they were very few and far between. Managing them compared to the tilled soil method was a night-and-day difference. Each season, sprinkle more wood chips over the older ones. The bottom layer will decompose and enrich the soil with a diverse number of minerals, including trace minerals.